Fence Pressure Washing

A tired, grey-green fence drags down the look of even the smartest garden. Wooden fences take a particular beating in the North East — wet winters, blustery springs and humid summers all encourage moss, algae and the silvering that makes wood look ancient before its time. The good news is that almost any wooden fence can be brought back. We pressure wash and restore garden fences across the region, and a refreshed fence transforms a garden in a single afternoon.

We clean traditional close-board, panel, lap, hit-and-miss and trellis fences. We can also re-stain or re-oil after the clean, locking in years of protection and the colour you want.

Fence types we work on

• Close-board (feather-edge) fencing — the most common UK garden fence; treated softwood.
• Lap panel fencing — overlapping horizontal panels in pre-made frames.
• Hit-and-miss fencing — alternating boards, popular for screening with airflow.
• Trellis and decorative fencing — finer work, careful pressure needed.
• Posts and gravel boards — included in the clean as standard.
• Hardwood fences and gates — iroko, oak; oiled rather than stained.
• Picket fences — usually painted; soft-wash to avoid stripping the paint.
• Estate / rail fencing — post-and-rail in large gardens.

The clean and restore process

A typical fence restoration follows the same order on most jobs. We start by clearing any plants or debris growing through the fence (and ask before cutting anything back hard). We then pressure wash with care, working along the grain at moderate pressure to avoid splintering or fluffing the wood. Heavy moss and algae on the bottom rail and gravel boards get pre-treated with biocide.

Once the fence is rinsed and clean, we let it dry — usually a full day, longer in cooler weather. Once dry, we apply the chosen finish: stain, oil or paint, depending on the original treatment and your preference. We brush rather than spray on detail work for the best penetration; large flat panels can be sprayed for speed.

Stain, oil or paint?

Stain, oil and paint each have a place. Stain is the most common — penetrates the wood, colour-treats it, and leaves the grain visible. Lasts two to four years depending on aspect. Oil is best on hardwoods like oak and iroko — protects without forming a film, but doesn't hide weathering as much. Paint is good for cottage-garden and town-house aesthetics, hides imperfections, but needs proper preparation and lasts three to five years before re-coating.

We use Cuprinol, Ronseal, Osmo and similar quality finishes — and we'll suggest the right one based on your fence and what you're trying to achieve.

Common fence problems

• Green algae — biocide-treated and washed off.
• Silvering / grey weathering — surface fibres oxidised; cleaning and re-staining restores original colour.
• Black mould — usually on shaded or north-facing fences; treated and rinsed.
• Peeling old stain — sanded back before restaining.
• Rotted bottom rail — we'll point it out; usually replaceable separately.
• Loose panels — flagged so you can re-secure or have them re-fixed.
• Lifted nails or screws — knocked back as we go.

How long does fence restoration last?

A pressure-washed and re-stained fence typically looks fresh for two to four years before needing another refresh. Sun-exposed and west-facing fences fade fastest; shaded north-facing fences develop algae fastest. Both need attention, just for different reasons.

An annual quick rinse-down (which we can do as a maintenance visit) extends the time between full restorations and stops algae establishing. We're happy to put fences on the same maintenance schedule as patios or driveways.

Plants and surroundings

Most of our fence work is on boundaries planted with shrubs, climbers or borders. We work carefully around plants, sheeting where needed and taking time to wash any biocide off leaves at the end. We don't cut back planting without asking first — if a fence is hidden behind a mature climber, we'll discuss whether the climber needs to come out first or if we can work around it.

If we find that planting can't be worked around, we'll be honest about it — sometimes the right answer is to do the fence first, then reinstate planting later.