Cycle Pressure Washing
Bicycle pressure washing and deep cleaning across the North East. Mountain bikes, road bikes, e-bikes. Drivetrain degrease, chain re-lube. Free quotes.
After winter — or just a season of regular riding — even a well-cared-for bicycle is filthy. Mud caked into chainstays, road salt corroding the drivetrain, dust embedded in cables, and dried-on energy gels coating the frame. Cleaning a bike yourself is fine in theory, but most people don't have a proper degreaser, the right brushes, or the patience for a full strip clean. Drop your bike off with us and we'll do it properly.
We clean bicycles of every type across the North East — mountain bikes, road bikes, hybrids, e-bikes, gravel bikes and more. The full clean covers the frame, the drivetrain, the wheels, and the contact points, with chain re-lube included as standard.
What a full bike clean covers
- Frame and bodywork — pre-soak, hand-wash, low-pressure rinse
- Drivetrain — chain, cassette, derailleurs, chainrings degreased
- Wheels and tyres — sidewalls, rims, hubs detail-cleaned
- Brakes — caliper, rotor and pad cleaning (alcohol-only on rotors)
- Cables and housings — wiped down, lubricated where applicable
- Bar tape / grips — cleaned (or replaced as add-on)
- Saddle — cleaned and conditioned
- Chain re-lube — wet or dry depending on season
Why drivetrains need separate handling
The drivetrain — chain, cassette, derailleurs and chainrings — is the dirtiest part of a bike and needs different chemistry from the rest. The grime is oily (chain lube mixed with road dirt), so it needs a degreaser to lift, not just shampoo. We treat the drivetrain separately on every clean: degreaser brushed on, soaked, agitated with cassette and chain brushes, then rinsed.
After cleaning and drying, the chain gets re-lubricated. Wet lube for winter (longer-lasting in wet conditions but attracts dirt faster), dry lube for summer (cleaner running but wears off in rain). Just tell us what you ride and we'll pick the right one — or specify exactly what you want.
Pressure considerations
Direct high-pressure water at a bicycle will damage it. Bearing seals on hubs, headsets, bottom brackets and pivots aren't designed to take focused pressure — water gets past the seal, washes out the grease, and the bearing rusts within weeks. This is the single most common reason bikes need expensive bearing services after DIY pressure washing.
Our process uses pressure only where it's safe — frame surfaces and wheels, never directly at bearings, electronic components, or the bottom bracket area. We finish with hand-rinsing in those sensitive zones.
E-bike considerations
E-bikes are the trickiest bikes to clean because the motor, battery and display are all expensive and water-sensitive. We clean e-bikes with extra care: motor housing kept dry, battery contacts protected, display covered, and electrical connectors checked and dried after washing. The bike rides better and the components last longer.
Frequently asked questions
Will you damage my bearings?
No — we use low-pressure techniques specifically to avoid bearing damage. We never aim direct pressure at hubs, bottom brackets or headsets.
Do you re-lube the chain?
Yes — chain re-lube is included. We use wet lube for winter and dry lube for summer unless you specify otherwise.
Can you replace the chain or cassette?
Yes — drivetrain replacement is a popular add-on for end-of-winter cleans. We measure your chain for stretch and recommend replacement if it's beyond service life.
Do you clean shop demo and rental fleets?
Yes — we work with bike shops and rental companies on between-customer cleans and seasonal deep services.